Lake and Summery Sky Shawl - Free Knitting Pattern


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The Yarnpath

 

Friday, July 06, 2007


The Lake and the Summer Sky



Concept

Floor shot



I wanted to make a triangular, entrelac shawl with some lace elements.  Well, that’s not entirely true.  I wanted to make a lace, entrelac shawl but found that I couldn’t manipulate the fine yarn to my satisfaction.  The ability will probably come with time and practice but I didn’t want to wait that long for the shawl :)

Trasitionally, entrelac is worked in rectangles.  With some playing around, however, I discovered that binding off the last block of each tier would give me the triangle shape I was looking for.

First a number of triangles are worked - to give the top of the shawl a straight edge.  The last triangle is bound off and stitches are picked up to work the first block of the first tier.  Each tier of blocks is worked in the opposite direction from, and contains one block less than the preceding tier.  Work proceeds from top to bottom, beginning with 11 triangles at the top and ending with one block at the bottom.  When the last block is bound off, stitches are picked up and the border is worked on one side at a time.  There may be a way to create a symmetrical border by working from the top corner on one side of the shawl, down, around the point and up the other side - but I couldn’t find it :)

I also dyed the yarn for this piece as I was hoping for a graduated transition from light to dark.  I’m not going to detail that process here except to say that while what I got wasn’t quite what I was looking for, it is acceptable and the process was, for me, part of the fun :)

The execution of this piece isn’t difficult but it is a bit complex.  Familiarity with the entrelac technique is definitely recommended.

Materials

2200 yards of worsted weight yarn, about 1540 yards for the body of the shawl and about 660 yards for the border.  Original made with Knitpicks Bare Peruvian Highland Wool.  Body wool was dyed in graduated blues with Easter egg dye tablets.  Border wool was left natural.

Size 9 circular needle.  You could probably get away with a 47” needle.  I used a 60” needle and was glad for the length.

Size 9 straight needles to work the border (I used double points with point protectors on the ends).

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Dimensions

Width (across the top):  93”
Height (from top to point):  48”

Note:  This shawl is huge and was designed that way intentionally.  I am a big girl and this is a big girl’s wrap :)  You can make it smaller by casting on for fewer blocks.  You could also use finer yarn and smaller needles.  I do realize that not everyone wants a shawl that can double as a blanket.

Diagram



Stitch Patterns - Tier A

Lace-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) *K1, yo, k2, sl2-k1-psso, k2, yo; repeat from * one time and end K2tog (last picked up stitch together with next available stitch from following block of triangle.

Row 2:  (and all wrong side rows) Sl1, purl across.

Repeat these two rows for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Solid-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) K3, yf, slip 3 purlwise, yb, k5, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, k2tog incorporating the last stitch of the row with the next available stitch of the next block or triangle.

Row 2:  S1, purl to end.

Row 3:  K4.  Inserting needle beneath the first float on the previous right-side row, K1, drawing the loop under the float.  K1, yf, sl5 purlwise, yb, k1, kf, k3, k2tog-b.

Row 4:  Sl1, purl to end.

Row 5:  K3, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, kf, k2, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, k2togb.

Row 6:  Sl1, purl to end.

Repeat rows 3 - 6 for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Armchair shot



Stitch Patterns - Tier B

Lace-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) *Sl1, yo, k2, sl2-k1-psso, k2, yo; repeat from * one time and end K1.

Row 2:  (and all wrong side rows) Purl across to last stitch.  P2tog, incorporating the last stitch of the row with the next available shawl stitch.

Repeat these two rows for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Solid-block pattern

Row 1:  (right side) K3, yf, slip 3 purlwise, yb, k5, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k3.

Row 2:  Purl to last stitch, P2tog, incorporating the last stitch of the row with the next available shawl stitch.

Row 3:  K4, kf, k1, drawing the loop under the float.  K1, yf, sl5 purlwise, yb, k1, kf, k3, k2tog-b.

Row 4:  Purl to last stitch, p2tog.

Row 5:  K3, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k2, kf, k2, yf, sl3 purlwise, yb, k3.

Row 6:  Purl to last stitch, p2tog.

Repeat rows 3 - 6 for pattern and work until all available stitches on following block or triangle have been incorporated. 

Special Terms

Sssk (sssk) - Same as an ssk except done with three stitches instead of two.

KF (kf) - Knit float.  Insert needle under float created on previous, right-side row and knit stitch, bringing loop down and out from under the float creating a chevron shape of the yarn.

The Beginning

Cast on 187 stitches, loosely.

Row 1:  P2, turn.
Row 2:  K2, turn.
Row 3:  P3, turn.
Row 4:  K3, turn.
Row 5:  P4, turn.
Row 6:  K4, turn…

Continue like this, picking up an additional stitch on each purl row until your row consists of P17.  Do not turn.  The first triangle is complete.  Create the next triangle the same way and continue creating triangles until you have 11 all together. 

Turn work and bind off last triangle created.  Do not break yarn. 

The Middle

Tier A

Pick up 16 stitches knitwise, along the side of the next triangle or block (for the first block of the tier only - you will need to pick up 17 stitches for subsequent blocks).  Refer to diagram to determine whether the next block is a lace-pattern or a solid-pattern.  Tier A blocks are worked from right to left and the stitches for them are picked up knitwise.  Work a purl row and then begin the pattern.  Tier A blocks are joined to the shawl with a k2tog-b consisting of the last working stitch and the next available stitch of the shawl.

When you’ve incorporated the last available shawl stitch on the last block of Tier A, turn work and bind off that block.

Tier B

Pick up 16 stitches, purlwise, along the side of the next block (for the first block of the tier only - you will need to pick up 17 stitches for subsequent blocks).  Refer to diagram to determine whether the next block is a lace pattern or a solid pattern.  Tier B blocks are worked from left to right and the stitches are picked up purlwise.  Begin pattern on the next row.  Tier B blocks are joined to the shawl with a p2tog, consisting of the last working stitch and the next available stitch of the shawl.

When you’ve incorporated the last available shawl stitch on the last block of Tier B, turn work and bind off that block.

The shawl will finish with a single, Tier B block.

The End

Borders are worked on one side at a time, from the top down.

Center back point



Beginning at the point on the right-hand side of the shawl, pick up 224 stitches (use your long circular for this).

Cast on an additional 15 stitches.

Row 1:  (and all wrong side rows) Purl to last stitch, P2tog - the last cast-on stitch together with the first stitch from the side of the shawl.

Row 2:  Sl1, K3, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p5.
Row 4:  Sl1, K2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, p5.
Row 6:  Sl1, K1, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, p5.
Row 8:  Sl1, yo, K3tog, K1, yo, k7, yo, k1, p5.
Row 10: Sl1, k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.
Row 12: Sl1, K6, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.
Row 14: Sl1, k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.
Row 16: Sl1, k4, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k2tog, p5.

Repeat Rows 1 - 16 for pattern.  When last stitch has been worked off the side of the shawl, purl back and continue thus, beginning with a right-side row:

K10, p5.
P14, turn.
K9, p5.
P13, turn,
K8, p5.
P12, turn.
K7, p5.
P11, turn.
K6, p5.
P10, turn.
K5, p5.
P9, turn.
K4, p5.
P8, turn.
K3, p5.
P7, turn.
K2, p5.
P6, turn.
K1, p5.
P5.

Place these 15 stitches on a holder or a piece of yarn.

On the opposite side of the shawl, starting at the top, pick up 224 stitches.  Break yarn.

Cast 15 stitches on to a double point or a short, straight needle and, starting at the top….

Row 1:  P5, K1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k3tog, to, k3, k2tog-back (last stitch of border and first available shawl stitch.

Row 2:  (and all wrong side rows) S1, purl to end of row.

Row 3:  P5, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k2, k2tog-b.
Row 5:  P5, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k1, k2tog-b.
Row 7:  P5, k1, yo, k7, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k2tog-b.
Row 9:  P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k7, k2tog-b.
Row 11: P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k6, k2tog-b.
Row 13: P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k5, k2tog-b.
Row 15: P5, k2tog-b, yo, k1, sssk, yo, k4, k2tog-b.
Row 16: Sl1, purl to end of row.

Repeat these 16 rows for the border pattern.
When you’ve finished knitting up the picked up stitches, continue thus:

P5, k9, turn and purl back.
P5, k8, turn and purl back.
P5, k7, turn and purl back.
P5, k5, turn and purl back.
P5, k4, turn and purl back.
P5, k3, turn and purl back.
P5, k2, turn and purl back.
P5, k1, turn and purl back.
P5, turn and purl back.

Graft, sew or do a three-needle bind-off to join this side of the border point to the other side.

Weave in all ends and block as you desire.

Posted by Robbyn on 07/06 at 09:41 AM
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