Custom Tank Top - Free Crochet Pattern
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Preview This Free Crochet Pattern: Custom Tank Top
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Sunday, June 29, 2008
Custom Tank Top Version #1
Custom Tank Top Version #1:
The pattern was originally created in size xsmall and has minimal shaping, but instructions are included to make it with a custom fit that should work for most sizes (At least I hope so! This is my first time writing a pattern. E-mail feedback to margo(at)channelzilch(dot)com, post comments here, or contact me at my ravelry account: yonjuunana).
Check out the other versions of this pattern. If you want, you should be able to mix and match parts with them:
Version #2
More coming soon!
Materials: Aunt Lydia''s Quick Crochet Denim, or other light worsted yarn, approx 600 yards for size xsmall. (Shown in color: Oxford) [EDIT: A note about yarn weight and substitutions: Aunt Lydia''s is listed as worsted weight but seems to be lighter than that. I''m making another version of the top in Lion Brand Microspun, which is sport weight, and getting the same gauge. If you''re substituting yarn, try making a swatch first.]
Hook: Size H and I
Sizes: xs (s, m, l)
Gauge: 3.5'' x 2.75'' for 18 stitches wide x 10 rows in the alternating back/front loop only stitch pattern used in the first part of the pattern. (Gauge isn''t super important because you''ll be trying on the garment at various stages to make sure it fits properly- but I recommend trying to get close to gauge for width at least. If you want to substitute a heavier worsted yarn like Sugar''n Cream, it may be hard to get gauge, so I''d try swatching and reducing the starting chain by a few stitches if necessary. I''m going to try this sometime and I''ll update the pattern with advice when I do.)
Bust:
Using the H hook, Ch 19 (21, 23, 25), leaving about a foot of yarn at the beginning of the chain.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and all remaining sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, Sc in front loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc in back loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have a long strip that can fit around your bust comfortably, or measure around your bust and crochet the strip to that length. Do not cut yarn. Use the foot of yarn left at the beginning to sew the front and back of the strip together to form a loop, with the stripes created by the front and back loop crochet on the outside.
Top:
Row 1: Ch 2. Sc around the top of the strip previously created (1 sc should fit in each row), sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Now it gets a bit tricky- Figure out where the center front of your garment is, making sure the seam where you sewed the two ends of the strip together is on the back. Mark this center front stitch with a safety pin or something. Now count 13 sts to either side of this marker, and place markers there as well. (Customization notes: These markers will be about where the outside edge of the straps are. Feel free to try on the garment at this point to see if you want to adjust the strap placement at all, and move the markers if necessary) Ch 2, sc in all sts to 1st marker, dc in st with marker and next 2 sts, triple crochet next 3 sts, dc 3, sc to center marker, sc in st with center marker, sc to 9 sts away from last marker, dc 3, triple crochet 3, dc 2, dc in st with marker, sc all remaining sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Repeat row 2. Bind off and weave in end.
Straps:
Row 1: Attach yarn to front top, 3 sts to the inside from where one of the outer markers was placed (this should be right between a triple crochet and a double crochet stitch). Ch 39. Count 11 sts from the seam on the back, sl st into that st.
Row 2: Sl st into next st on back (12 sts from the center seam), sc all sts in chain (39 sts), sl st into front st next to the st you started at (moving from the center to the outside- should be a dc stitch).
Row 3: Sl st into next st on front, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next st on back.
Row 4: Sl st into next st on back, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next stitch on the front, bind off and weave in ends.
(In simpler terms- you''re single crocheting back and forth along a strap that''s 39 sts long, and on each side you attach the strap by slip stitching where you want it to connect, then slip stitching in the next stitch to move over a row, moving from the center side of the strap to the outside.)
Make 2 straps this way.
(For customization- After completing the top part you should be able to try on the garment at any time to make sure it''s fitting properly. To make sure the straps are the length you want, I''d recommend trying on the top after the first row of the first strap or so, so you can see if the straps are at a good length and if not, you can adjust them by adding or subtracting a few sts so they fit.)
Bottom:
Row 1: Attach yarn at back seam on the bottom. Draw up a loop, ch 2, sc around the bottom of the strip like you did for the top, sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Count how many sts you have. For shaping, and to make this fit the lace pattern, figure out what the closest multiple of 8 is that''s smaller than the number you counted. Ch 2, sc all sts, using evenly distributed sc2togs to reduce the number of stitches to that multiple of 8,
(For customization or a better fit for larger sizes- Measure around your chest under your bust, make a small gauge swatch of single crochet, and use that to calculate how many stitches are needed to fit around you, rounding up to the closest multiple of 8.)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of beginning ch3.
(Note: If you are substituting a lace pattern that is not a multiple of 8, you''ll have to change this a bit. For example, if you want to use a multiple of 6, use the number 6 instead of 8 when following this section.)
Lace pattern (multiple of 8):
Row 1: Ch 2, dc 4 into first st, *sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 2, dc 5 into next st* repeat between *s until 6 sts remain, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 1, sl st into top of first ch2, sl st into next st.
Row 2: Ch 3, sk 1, dc, *sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain st on previous row, sk 2, dc, sk 1, dc* repeat between *s until 5 sts remain, sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain on previous row, sk 2, sl st into 2nd chain of first ch3.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc 4 into space created by chain on previous row, *sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain on previous row* repeat between *s until 6 sts remain, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 1, sl st into top of first ch2, sl st into next st.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 15 rows of the lace pattern total. For shaping: I do the first 5 rows using the H hook, the next 5 rows alternating between the H and I hook every repeat of the lace pattern, then the last 5 rows using only the I hook.
(Customization: You can try on the top at any point to see if it''s long enough, and do extra repeats of the lace if it isn''t. For curvier shaping, feel free to gradually increase to an even larger hook size.)
Bottom edging:
Row 1: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2, bind off. Weave in ends.
I''m offering this pattern for free, but if you can, please donate a few dollars using the paypal button in the sidebar. It would be very much appreciated, and help me to be able to keep offering more patterns in the future.
The pattern was originally created in size xsmall and has minimal shaping, but instructions are included to make it with a custom fit that should work for most sizes (At least I hope so! This is my first time writing a pattern. E-mail feedback to margo(at)channelzilch(dot)com, post comments here, or contact me at my ravelry account: yonjuunana).
Check out the other versions of this pattern. If you want, you should be able to mix and match parts with them:
Version #2
More coming soon!
Materials: Aunt Lydia''s Quick Crochet Denim, or other light worsted yarn, approx 600 yards for size xsmall. (Shown in color: Oxford) [EDIT: A note about yarn weight and substitutions: Aunt Lydia''s is listed as worsted weight but seems to be lighter than that. I''m making another version of the top in Lion Brand Microspun, which is sport weight, and getting the same gauge. If you''re substituting yarn, try making a swatch first.]
Hook: Size H and I
Sizes: xs (s, m, l)
Gauge: 3.5'' x 2.75'' for 18 stitches wide x 10 rows in the alternating back/front loop only stitch pattern used in the first part of the pattern. (Gauge isn''t super important because you''ll be trying on the garment at various stages to make sure it fits properly- but I recommend trying to get close to gauge for width at least. If you want to substitute a heavier worsted yarn like Sugar''n Cream, it may be hard to get gauge, so I''d try swatching and reducing the starting chain by a few stitches if necessary. I''m going to try this sometime and I''ll update the pattern with advice when I do.)
Bust:
Using the H hook, Ch 19 (21, 23, 25), leaving about a foot of yarn at the beginning of the chain.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and all remaining sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, Sc in front loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc in back loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have a long strip that can fit around your bust comfortably, or measure around your bust and crochet the strip to that length. Do not cut yarn. Use the foot of yarn left at the beginning to sew the front and back of the strip together to form a loop, with the stripes created by the front and back loop crochet on the outside.
Top:
Row 1: Ch 2. Sc around the top of the strip previously created (1 sc should fit in each row), sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Now it gets a bit tricky- Figure out where the center front of your garment is, making sure the seam where you sewed the two ends of the strip together is on the back. Mark this center front stitch with a safety pin or something. Now count 13 sts to either side of this marker, and place markers there as well. (Customization notes: These markers will be about where the outside edge of the straps are. Feel free to try on the garment at this point to see if you want to adjust the strap placement at all, and move the markers if necessary) Ch 2, sc in all sts to 1st marker, dc in st with marker and next 2 sts, triple crochet next 3 sts, dc 3, sc to center marker, sc in st with center marker, sc to 9 sts away from last marker, dc 3, triple crochet 3, dc 2, dc in st with marker, sc all remaining sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Repeat row 2. Bind off and weave in end.
Straps:
Row 1: Attach yarn to front top, 3 sts to the inside from where one of the outer markers was placed (this should be right between a triple crochet and a double crochet stitch). Ch 39. Count 11 sts from the seam on the back, sl st into that st.
Row 2: Sl st into next st on back (12 sts from the center seam), sc all sts in chain (39 sts), sl st into front st next to the st you started at (moving from the center to the outside- should be a dc stitch).
Row 3: Sl st into next st on front, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next st on back.
Row 4: Sl st into next st on back, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next stitch on the front, bind off and weave in ends.
(In simpler terms- you''re single crocheting back and forth along a strap that''s 39 sts long, and on each side you attach the strap by slip stitching where you want it to connect, then slip stitching in the next stitch to move over a row, moving from the center side of the strap to the outside.)
Make 2 straps this way.
(For customization- After completing the top part you should be able to try on the garment at any time to make sure it''s fitting properly. To make sure the straps are the length you want, I''d recommend trying on the top after the first row of the first strap or so, so you can see if the straps are at a good length and if not, you can adjust them by adding or subtracting a few sts so they fit.)
Bottom:
Row 1: Attach yarn at back seam on the bottom. Draw up a loop, ch 2, sc around the bottom of the strip like you did for the top, sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Count how many sts you have. For shaping, and to make this fit the lace pattern, figure out what the closest multiple of 8 is that''s smaller than the number you counted. Ch 2, sc all sts, using evenly distributed sc2togs to reduce the number of stitches to that multiple of 8,
(For customization or a better fit for larger sizes- Measure around your chest under your bust, make a small gauge swatch of single crochet, and use that to calculate how many stitches are needed to fit around you, rounding up to the closest multiple of 8.)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of beginning ch3.
(Note: If you are substituting a lace pattern that is not a multiple of 8, you''ll have to change this a bit. For example, if you want to use a multiple of 6, use the number 6 instead of 8 when following this section.)
Lace pattern (multiple of 8):
Row 1: Ch 2, dc 4 into first st, *sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 2, dc 5 into next st* repeat between *s until 6 sts remain, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 1, sl st into top of first ch2, sl st into next st.
Row 2: Ch 3, sk 1, dc, *sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain st on previous row, sk 2, dc, sk 1, dc* repeat between *s until 5 sts remain, sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain on previous row, sk 2, sl st into 2nd chain of first ch3.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc 4 into space created by chain on previous row, *sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain on previous row* repeat between *s until 6 sts remain, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 1, sl st into top of first ch2, sl st into next st.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 15 rows of the lace pattern total. For shaping: I do the first 5 rows using the H hook, the next 5 rows alternating between the H and I hook every repeat of the lace pattern, then the last 5 rows using only the I hook.
(Customization: You can try on the top at any point to see if it''s long enough, and do extra repeats of the lace if it isn''t. For curvier shaping, feel free to gradually increase to an even larger hook size.)
Bottom edging:
Row 1: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2, bind off. Weave in ends.
I''m offering this pattern for free, but if you can, please donate a few dollars using the paypal button in the sidebar. It would be very much appreciated, and help me to be able to keep offering more patterns in the future.
8 comments:
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Deborah said...
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What a lovely pattern! I like your conversational style of writing it, too.
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May 13, 2009 6:52 AM
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katrinastamps said...
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I am loving this pattern, but have a question about the lace pattern. I notice that rows 1 and 3 both involve a ch1, but row 2 does not. Is there a reason for this, or should I throw a ch1 in there too?
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June 8, 2009 9:41 AM
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Krafty Thoughts said...
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I love your work, but I feel that the images you're taking of your work really doesn't do it justice. Perhaps if you had someone else model it off and took the image in natural lighting, instead of indoor lighting, on a neutral background. If you can make the background neutral, you can look at my PShop tutorial on how to fix backgrounds:
http://www.kraftythoughts.com/2009/11/diy-fixing-backgrounds.html -
November 24, 2009 4:46 PM
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DWaye said...
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I love your pattern!! Can't wait to try this for my niece!!
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June 5, 2010 8:33 AM
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Joy said...
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Been looking for a great summer tank that would be easy and quick. Finally found it! Will be starting tonight using a bamboo/cotton blend.
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June 23, 2010 5:18 PM
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Debra F said...
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I have been looking for the perfect pattern for my daughter. This is it. Very well designed!
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July 23, 2010 12:54 PM
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Debra F said...
- This post has been removed by the author.
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July 23, 2010 12:54 PM
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Micki said...
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I love this pattern! I just used the top/bust part of the pattern, added a couple extra rows of sc and attached a "skirt" of fabric to it and did a row of shells on the bottom and have a cute cute summer top! Thanks so much for the awesome pattern!
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August 17, 2010 7:13 PM
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