Alicia-Ann-18" doll

The inspiration for this outfit was the pink top that is actually the dress pattern called Alicia Doll™ in the Mary Maxim catalogue. So I can’t provide that pattern but I have made another top that will take the place of it. Because I started with Alicia I decided to call my new dear one Alicia Ann to account for the changes I made.


The progression from catalogue to headband…


It began with the Alicia Doll kit that I purchased from MM I decided to stop with a top rather than making a dress. My gauge was way too lose and I didn’t need to make the dress . I added a pair of jeans that I had hanging around. A dear friend requested that I make her some white Capri’s to go with the pink top… here we are



White Capri pants.





Join all rounds

Legs: make 2 and break off yarn after both legs.

With WW white yarn and 5 mm hook, ch 18

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. Join in top of turning ch. (16 dc)

Row 2: dc evenly around.

Row 3: 2 dc in first st, dc around

Row 4: dc to last st, 2dc in last.

Row 5: 2 dc in first st, dc around

Row 6: dc to last st, 2dc in last.

Row 7: 2 dc in first st, dc around

T Row 1: Align the two legs with the flaps to the outside and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

Go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc,2dc, 1dc, 2dc] in the five stitches, work (dc, tr, dc) into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T5: work evenly in dc.

Row T6: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.


The Capri’s are cute but they needed a top since I can not give the purchased pattern and so we have a totally wow white top



White top…Please note… I got all messed up on this top so I am going to tell you what I should have done.

Ch 38

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, hdc in 3, 2dc in next 2ch, dc in 4, 2dc in next 2ch, dc in 10, 2dc in next 2ch,, dc in 4, 2dc in next 2ch, dc in 5. (44dc)

Row 2: sc in 7, ch 1, sc in 8, ch1, sc in 14, ch1, sc in 8, ch 1, sc in 7. (44 sc, 4 ch 1sp)



Row 3: dc in 7, 3dc in ch 1 sp, dc in 8. 3dc in ch 1 sp, dc in 14, 3dc in ch 1 sp, dc in 8, 3dc in ch 1 sp dc in 7. (56 dc)

Row 4: sc in 8, 2sc in next, sc in 10, 2sc in next, sc in 16, 2sc in next, sc in 10, 2sc in next, sc in 8. (60 sc)

Row 5: dc in 10, sk 10, dc in 20, sk 10, dc in 10.(40 dc)

Row 6: *Dc in 3, 3dc in next* to end. (however it works out)

Row 7: *dc in 3, 3 dc in centre dc of 3dc group*
Work this row so that you have dc in plain dc and the group in group.

Row 8: dc in dc to 3dc group, work 4 dc group in centre dc of 3dc group.

Row 9: dc in ea dc up to 4 dc group, [work 2 dc in 2nd dc of group, ch 1, 2 dc in next dc of 4 dc group (shell made)] dc in ea plain dc, Repeat to end.

Row 10: *dc in ea dc up to shell, 5 dc in ch 1 sp of shell* rep to end. Do not break off

Edges and neck trim: Work sc edging along left side edge, work sc ch 5 all along neck edge, work sc along right side edge working in button loops (5 tight sc) if you wish . finish at lower right back edge. Break off and tidy all ends. I have 34 ch 5 loops along the neck edge. Just letting you know and as long as you are close – good to go.

Contrasting trim: att CC at left neck edge w/ sc,

Row 1: ch 1, sc in 1st ch 5 loop, *ch1, sk 2 ch 5 loops, sc in next* rep to last loop and fudge if you must, ch1, sc in rt neck edge.

Row 2:* sc in ch 1 sp, ch 3* to end, sc in last sc.

Row 3: *sc in sc, ch 4, sc in next sc* rep to end.


Ties: cut 2 strands of yarn abt. 40 inches long. Attach one to each back edge so it can be threaded through row 5. Try to get two even 20”ends when you tie in the yarn.

Weave the strands through row five from each edge to centre front. Tie into a pretty bow and clip ends evenly. This means that you will be ‘wasting’ a goodly bit of yarn but it is easier to work with plenty so I consider it worth it. I keep a stash of yarn strands for marking so they are good for me

Well then I had this little bit of yarn left that I had to finish for the stash busting points so the shorts were made...




Shorts…





Legs… make 2 do not break off after 2nd leg

5mm hook and WW yarn in CC

Row 1- 2: ch 22 and join. Work 2 rows of dc evenly.

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

Go to the Back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.
Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc,2dc, 1dc, 2dc] in the five stitches, work (dc, tr, dc) into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T6: work evenly in dc.

Row T7: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.

The bad news was that the little bit of yarn was not finished yet so … make a headband. Still not done… add to some white and make a pom pom for the headband




The head band.
With CC and 5mm hook… ch 4

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch to end. (3sc)

Work sc ribbing (sc in back loops only)
Gradually increase stitches to 5 then gradually return to 3 sc. Join to fist row. Break off and tidy all ends. Make a pom pom or other decoration as suits your style.






Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2009

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.